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Step 1:
Educating yourself about the Rottweiler breed... |
Rottweiler Breed Pro vs Con
Rottweiler Temperaments
Rottweilers
And Children
History Of The Rottweiler
AKC
Rottweiler Standards
FCI
Rottweiler Standards
Rottweiler
Breed At A Glance
Rottweiler Structure
Rottweiler Height/Weight
Rottweiler
Tail vs. Docked
Rottweiler
Tail Settings
Rottweiler Breed Test Levels
Rottweilers Hip Dysplasia
Reading Rottweiler Pedigree
Glossary of Rottweiler Terms
Rottweiler Articles/Books
Rottweilers World Wide
Step 2:
Finding a professional Rottweiler breeder... |
DKV Rottweiler Breeder
Why The Rottweiler Breed
German Rottweiler Females
German Rottweiler Males
DKV Rottweiler Videos
Rottweilers DKVR Produced
DKV Rottweiler Testimonials
Past DKV Rottweiler Litters
Rottweilers DKVR Imported
Rottweilers Recently Sold
Rottweiler Rainbow Bridge
Contact DKV Rottweilers
Step 3:
Finding the Rottweiler that fits your
family... |
Upcoming Rottweiler Litters
Rottweiler Puppies For Sale
Rottweiler Youths For Sale
Rottweiler Adults For Sale
Rottweiler Imports For Sale
How To Select The Right Pup
Puppy vs. Youth vs. Adult
Show Quality vs. Pet Quality
Step 4:
You reserved a Rottie! Things to know... |
Buyer Questionnaire
Rottweiler Puppy Contract
Rottweiler Youth Contract
Rottweiler Adult Contract
Rottweiler Import Contract
Rottweiler Stud Contract
Rottweiler Purchase Prices
Rottweiler Shipping Cost
Make An Online Payment
Step 5:
Your new Rottweiler is home; Now
what... |
What To Expect On Day One
Feeding A Rottweiler Puppy
What To Avoid In Dog Food
What Vaccines Do I Need
Rottweiler Potty Training
Rottweiler Crate Training
Basic Rottweiler Obedience
Keeping A Puppy Safe
Helpful Rottweiler Tips
Biggest Mistakes Made
Step 6:
Advancing your Rottie's show/working
career... |
Advanced Obedience
Showing Your Rottweiler
Schutzhund Training
German/English Commands
Links:
Miscellaneous Rottweiler links of interest... |
DKV Rottweilers Guestbook
DKV Rottweilers Guest Map
DKV Rottweilers Facebook
DKV Rottweilers YouTube
DKV Rottweilers Blog
DKV Rottweilers WordPress
DKV Rottweilers Sitemap
Dog Houses For Sale
Custom Rottweiler Art
Website Design
World Links
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Rottweiler Crate
Training
"Private room with a view. Ideal for traveling dogs or for
those who just want a secure, quiet place to hang out at home." That's how your
dog might describe his crate. It's his own personal den where he can find
comfort and solitude while you know he's safe and secure—and not shredding your
house while you're out running errands.
►Crating Philosophy
Crate training uses a dog's natural instincts as a den
animal. A wild dog's den is his home, a place to sleep, hide from danger, and
raise a family. The crate becomes your dog's den, an ideal spot to snooze or
take refuge during a thunderstorm.
- The primary use for a crate is housetraining. Dogs don't like to soil
their dens.
- The crate can limit access to the rest of the house while he learns other
rules, like not to chew on furniture.
- Crates are a safe way to transport your dog in the car.
►Crating Caution
A crate isn't a magical solution. If not used correctly, a dog can feel
trapped and frustrated.
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Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to
fear it and refuse to enter it.
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Don't leave your dog in the crate too long. A dog that’s
crated day and night doesn't get enough exercise or human interaction and can
become depressed or anxious. You may have to change your schedule, hire a pet
sitter, or take your dog to a doggie daycare facility to reduce the amount of
time he must spend in his crate every day.
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Puppies under six months of age shouldn't stay in a crate
for more than three or four hours at a time. They can't control their bladders
and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs that are being
housetrained. Physically, they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re
supposed to.
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Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy
the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.
►Selecting a Crate
Several types of crates are available:
- Plastic (often called "flight kennels")
- Fabric on a collapsible, rigid frame
- Collapsible, metal pens
Crates come in different sizes and can be purchased at most
pet supply stores or pet supply catalogs. Your dog's crate should be just large
enough for him to stand up and turn around in. If your dog is still growing,
choose a crate size that will accommodate his adult size. Block off the excess
crate space so your dog can't eliminate at one end and retreat to the other.
Your local animal shelter may rent out crates. By renting, you can trade up to
the appropriate size for your puppy until he’s reached his adult size, when you
can invest in a permanent crate.
►The Crate Training Process
Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog's age,
temperament and past experiences. It's important to keep two things in mind
while crate training:
- The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
- Training should take place in a series of small steps. Don't go too fast.
Step 1:
Introduce your dog to the cratePlace the crate in an area of your house where the family
spends a lot of time, such as the family room. Put a soft blanket or towel in
the crate. Take the door off and let the dog explore the crate at his leisure.
Some dogs will be naturally curious and start sleeping in the crate
right away. If yours isn't one of them:
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Bring him over to the crate, and talk to him in a happy
tone of voice. Make sure the crate door is open and secured so that it won't
hit your dog and frighten him.
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Encourage your dog to enter the crate by dropping some
small food treats nearby, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way
inside the crate. If he refuses to go all the way in at first, that's okay;
don't force him to enter.
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Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will
walk calmly all the way into the crate to get the food. If he isn't interested
in treats, try tossing a favorite toy in the crate. This step may take a few
minutes or as long as several days.
Step 2:
Feed your dog his meals in the crate
After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding him
his regular meals near the crate. This will create a pleasant association with
the crate.
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If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin
Step 2, place the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
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If he remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish
only as far inside as he will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious.
Each time you feed him, place the dish a little further back in the crate.
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Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat
his meal, you can close the door while he's eating. The first time you do
this, open the door as soon as he finishes his meal. With each successive
feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until he's staying in the
crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
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If he begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased
the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a
shorter time period. If he does whine or cry in the crate, don’t let him out
until he stops. Otherwise, he'll learn that the way to get out of the crate is
to whine, so he'll keep doing it.
Step 3:
Lengthen the crating periods
After your dog is eating his regular meals in the crate with
no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine him there for short time periods
while you're home.
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Call him over to the crate and give him a treat.
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Give him a command to enter, such as "kennel." Encourage
him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
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After your dog enters the crate, praise him, give him the
treat, and close the door.
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Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes, and
then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly again for a
short time, and then let him out of the crate.
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Repeat this process several times a day, gradually
increasing the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length of
time you're out of his sight.
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Once your dog will stay quietly in the crate for about 30
minutes with you mostly out of sight, you can begin leaving him crated when
you're gone for short time periods and/or letting him sleep there at night.
This may take several days or several weeks.
Step 4, Part A:
Crate your dog when you leave
After your dog can spend about 30 minutes in the crate
without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving him crated for short
periods when you leave the house.
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Put him in the crate using your regular command and a
treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate.
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Vary at what point in your "getting ready to leave" routine
you put your dog in the crate. Although he shouldn't be crated for a long time
before you leave, you can crate him anywhere from five to 20 minutes prior to
leaving.
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Don't make your departures emotional and prolonged—they
should be matter-of-fact. Praise your dog briefly, give him a treat for
entering the crate, and then leave quietly.
When you return home, don't reward your dog for excited
behavior by responding to him in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low
key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. Continue to crate
your dog for short periods from time to time when you're home so he doesn't
associate crating with being left alone.
Step 4, Part B:
Crate your dog at night
Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a
treat. Initially, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or
nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go
outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your
puppy when he whines to be let outside.
Older dogs, too, should initially be kept nearby so they
don't associate the crate with social isolation.
Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with
his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you
prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to
strengthen the bond between you and your pet.
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►Potential Problems
Whining
If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at
night, it may be difficult to decide whether he's whining to be let out of the
crate, or whether he needs to be let outside to eliminate. If you've followed
the training procedures outlined above, then your dog hasn't been rewarded for
whining in the past by being released from his crate. If that is the case, try
to ignore the whining. If your dog is just testing you, he'll probably stop
whining soon. Yelling at him or pounding on the crate will only make things
worse. If the whining continues after you've ignored him for
several minutes, use the phrase he associates with going outside to eliminate.
If he responds and becomes excited, take him outside. This should be a trip with
a purpose, not play time. If you're convinced that your dog doesn't need to
eliminate, the best response is to ignore him until he stops whining. Don't give
in; if you do, you'll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what he
wants. If you've progressed gradually through the training steps and haven't
done too much too fast, you'll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the
problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process
over again.
Separation
Anxiety
Attempting to use the crate as a remedy for
separation anxiety won't solve the problem. A crate may prevent your dog from
being destructive, but he may injure himself in an attempt to escape from the
crate. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with
counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You may want to consult a
professional animal-behavior specialist for help.
The information above can be found at
http://www.humanesociety.org.
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